Out at the mouth of the Firth of Forth an hour’s boat ride from Anstruther harbour on the Fife shore and accessible only at certain states of weather and tide, the Isle of May is not the easiest of places to reach. Some visitors breeze straight out there, first time lucky; others become used to turning up at Anstruther harbour, only to be told, “Sorry – the sailing’s cancelled” So it is generally with mixed feelings of surprise and delight that you find yourself stepping from the deck of May Princess on to the jetty of the May. Not that one’s reception is ecstatic when the Arctic terns of the island are hatching their chicks. They are inclined to show their displeasure at the intruder by trying to peck his brains out. The island is run by Scottish Natural Heritage because of its staggering number of seabirds.

Best of wild places, Christopher Somerville